Chardonnay Ctvrte
Here's one to surprise the table. Jaroslav Springer is a small family grower in Bořetice, in Moravia — the heart of Czech wine country, and a region far more serious than most drinkers realise. It sits on the 49th parallel, the same latitude as Alsace, Champagne and Burgundy, and this Chardonnay makes a proper case for it.
The Čtvrtě on the label is a single vineyard: south-facing slopes between Bořetice and Vrbice, at 190–220 metres, on loam over windblown loess. Springer has farmed organically since 2007, and everything is certified. This is a grower who has bet the whole estate on just two grapes — Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — and does both with real intent.
Being cool-climate and site-specific, expect a Chardonnay built on precision rather than power: bright orchard fruit and citrus, a fine mineral thread from that loess-and-limestone soil, and taut, savoury acidity holding it all together. It leans Burgundian and restrained, not tropical or heavily oaked — a wine for people who like their Chardonnay with tension.
At around £45 this is a genuine discovery, the sort of bottle you pour to prove that great white wine turns up in unexpected places.
How to Serve
Serve at 10–12°C in a white Burgundy glass. Give it a little time and air to open — don't serve it fridge-cold. No decanting strictly needed, but a large glass helps.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot for a wine list that champions growers like this. Planque for the low-intervention crowd. Brawn for something honest and food-led.
Food Pairings
Roast chicken or guinea fowl suits its restraint. It's also lovely with a creamy mushroom risotto, where the acidity keeps everything lifted.
