Ruby

Ruby comes from Krásná Hora, a Czech estate farming biodynamically at Starý Poddvorov in Moravia, close to the 49th parallel. It's a natural-wine red blend, and a persuasive argument that Central Europe deserves more of your attention — pulling together Zweigelt, Svatovavřinecké (St Laurent), Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The winemaking is patient and hands-off. Each variety is fermented separately for about a month on skins in open thousand-litre vats, and after malolactic the wines rest around eight months in 500-litre oak before the blend is assembled. Nothing is fined or filtered, and sulphur is kept low, so the wine arrives with all its texture and life intact.

The colour lives up to the name — a deep, bright ruby with a purple rim. On the nose there's cherry and plum; the palate is elegant and velvety, red and forest fruits threaded with a kiss of liquorice, fine tannins and a fresh line of acidity that carries the finish. For a blend of five grapes it's remarkably coherent, more silk than muscle.

This is easy, characterful drinking with a natural-wine soul — pour it slightly cool with friends who like their reds honest and unpolished. Don't overthink it.

How to Serve

Serve lightly chilled, around 14 to 15°C, in a standard red glass. No decant required, though a gentle swirl wakes it up. Drink young while the fruit is vivid.

Where to Drink It

Planque near Haggerston, spiritual home of the low-intervention crowd. Dandy in Newington Green, for characterful bottles and good plates. Noble Rot, if you want it somewhere that takes natural wine seriously.

Food Pairings

A charcuterie board is the natural fit. I'd also happily drink it with a slightly cool glass beside a mushroom and thyme tart, letting the forest-fruit side echo the earthiness.