2022 Gevrey-Chambertin, Joseph Drouhin
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest commune in the Côte de Nuits and boasts more grand crus than any other village in Burgundy, so a village-level bottling from a house like Drouhin is a shrewd way to taste the address without the grand-cru price. This is 100% Pinot Noir from vines around Gevrey-Chambertin and neighbouring Brochon.
Maison Joseph Drouhin has run out of Beaune since 1880, now in its fourth family generation under winemaker Véronique Boss-Drouhin. They farmed organically and biodynamically long before it was fashionable — since 1993 — which makes them one of the region's largest biodynamic producers. The wine is fully destemmed, fermented on wild yeasts, then aged 14 to 16 months in French oak with a modest fifth or so new barrels.
2022 is a lovely thing: the ripeness and generosity of a warm year kept fresh by the acidity of a cooler, classic one. The nose leads with black cherry, wild blackberry and liquorice, easing into gentle spice and leather. On the palate the tannin never bites — it folds into a velvety texture the French call gras, with racy acidity keeping it linear. Wine Spectator gave it 91 points and a drinking window stretching towards 2042.
Approachable now with air, but the reward comes to those who wait five or six years. A benchmark introduction to serious red Burgundy.
How to Serve
Serve at 16°C in a large Burgundy bowl. Decant an hour ahead if drinking young to coax it open. It will cellar happily into the late 2030s.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot, the obvious Burgundy pilgrimage. The Wolseley, for red Burgundy with proper occasion. J Sheekey, where it works its magic beside richer fish dishes.
Food Pairings
Roast guinea fowl or a simple roast chicken lets the Pinot shine. For something richer, coq au vin closes the loop — Burgundy in the glass and the pot.
