Bruichladdich 18yo
Almost everything that leaves Islay arrives wrapped in peat smoke. Bruichladdich chooses not to, and their 18 Year Old is the clearest argument for why an unpeated Islay malt is worth your attention.
The distillery sits on the shore of Loch Indaal on the Rinns of Islay, working with Victorian machinery that was rescued and coaxed back to life when the place reopened in 2001. Every drop is matured on the island itself, in warehouses close enough to the water that the sea gets a say. This 18 is built mostly on ex-bourbon casks, with a smaller portion of Sauternes and Port wine casks folded in to add sweetness and fruit.
The nose gives honey, butterscotch and orange, then softer floral notes and stone fruit, peach and melon, with a faint saline edge. The palate carries tropical fruit and guava over toasted, mellow oak, ginger spice and that thread of coastal salt running underneath. At 50%, non-chill filtered and naturally coloured, it has real presence, so a little water is welcome here to settle the alcohol and let the fruit spread.
This is a whisky for an unhurried evening, when you want depth and coastal character without a bonfire in the glass.
How to Serve
A tulip glass, neat to begin, then a few drops of water at 50% to open the tropical fruit and tame the heat.
Where to Drink It
Black Rock in Shoreditch, whose wood-led setting suits an aged, oak-driven Islay. Milroy's of Soho, a whisky bar that appreciates the unpeated exception. Dukes Bar, for a quiet corner and a proper measure.
Food Pairings
Try it with seared scallops, or a slice of mango and lime tart to lift the tropical side.
