Vitícole Mentridana El Mentridano 2021 - 75cl

Mentrida sits in Garnacha's old heartland, in the granite foothills south-west of Madrid, and it is quietly becoming one of Spain's most exciting places for the grape. El Mentridano makes the case. It comes from old bush-vine Garnacha grown on decomposed granite at around 600 metres in the Valle del Alberche, on the Gredos side of the region.

The winemaking stays out of the way: whole-bunch fermentation, then a rest in large neutral oak foudres, so there is no makeup here, just the fruit, the altitude and the stone. Granite matters as much as the grape in this corner of Spain; it drains fast, holds the cold and pushes the vines to work, and you can taste that struggle in the glass. Expect bright, almost weightless red fruit, wild strawberry and raspberry and red cherry, lifted by a note of wild herb and a faint floral edge. Granite Garnacha like this trades power for freshness. The tannins are fine and sappy, the acidity bright, and a cool mineral undertow keeps it dangerously drinkable.

Serious enough to think about, easy enough to empty. Garnacha grown on granite tends to drink this way, all perfume and lift rather than weight, and Mentrida is starting to draw the sort of attention that neighbouring Gredos has enjoyed for a while. It is delicious now and needs nothing more than a light chill and a wide glass. It will hold and gain a little complexity over three or four years, but there is no real reason to wait on it, and every reason to pull the cork tonight.

How to Serve

Serve slightly cool, around 14-15°C, in a Burgundy bowl. No decant needed, though half an hour open won't hurt.

Where to Drink It

• Brindisa, Borough Market, with charcuterie and small plates.
• Noble Rot, Lamb's Conduit Street, a list that loves this kind of Garnacha.

Food Pairings

Grilled vegetables and jamon, or a herb-roasted chicken.