Squerryes Blanc de Blancs 2018

When the Warde family had the ground at Squerryes surveyed before planting in 2006, the report came back saying the chalk escarpment running through their Kent estate had more in common with the Cote des Blancs than with anywhere else in England. They planted accordingly. This is the wine that proves the geologist right.

It is entirely Chardonnay, grown high on the North Downs at around 150 metres, where the site runs about a degree cooler than most of the south-east. That matters more than it sounds: cooler means slower, and slower means the fruit arrives with acidity intact. The 2018 then sat on its lees for sixty-nine months — nearly six years — which is longer than a great many vintage Champagnes get.

The result is taut rather than showy. Green apple and lemon zest lead, with stone fruit filling in behind and a chalky, almost stony line running underneath the whole thing. The acidity is fully integrated rather than sitting on top, and the long lees ageing has left a fine bready texture that softens the edges without blunting them. English sparkling wine gets talked about in terms of potential; this is a bottle that has stopped needing the qualifier.

How to Serve

8-10°C. Please use a white wine glass rather than a flute — a wine with this much lees character needs room to show it, and a flute throws it all away. No need to rush: it will keep developing for another five years or so.

Where to Drink It

Bentley's on Swallow Street, at the oyster bar. Scott's in Mayfair for something more occasion-led. Noble Rot, which has been championing English growers for years.

Food Pairings

Native oysters if they are in season, or Dorset crab dressed simply. It is also very good with a plate of good ham and a hunk of Comte — the lees texture handles salt beautifully.