Squerryes Rosé 2022

Squerryes make their sparkling wine high on the North Downs at Westerham in Kent, on chalk that is a geological cousin of Champagne's. This is their traditional-method rosé — bottle-fermented, lees-aged, brut — a 2022 that leans on the estate's Pinot for its colour and its red-fruit character.

The family's motto, Licet est Beatis, translates loosely as 'it is permitted to be joyful', and of everything they make this is the bottle that earns it. There is nothing solemn about a good English rosé fizz, and this one is built for the sunnier end of the year.

The colour is a pale, pretty pink; the nose is all crisp summer berries — redcurrant, strawberry, a little raspberry. The palate keeps that fruit bright and delicate, with a citrus-and-cranberry tang and the fine, refreshing acidity English chalk delivers so well. The mousse is fine, the finish clean and energetic rather than heavy. Time on the lees gives it just enough weight to sit at the table rather than only in the garden.

Open it on a warm evening, or pour it as a rosé apéritif with people you actually like. It has the shellfish-friendly acidity to start a summer lunch and the charm to carry a celebration.

How to Serve

Chill to 8-10°C, no colder, so the berry fruit stays expressive. A white-wine glass shows it better than a narrow flute. Drink on the young side while it is fresh.

Where to Drink It

The River Cafe, Hammersmith — terrace weather and English fizz. Brat, Shoreditch — wood-fired fish loves a sparkling rosé. Scott's, Mount Street — a glass of pink at the bar.

Food Pairings

Dressed crab, or grilled prawns with a squeeze of lemon.