Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes 2017 - 75cl

This is the same wine that made the Burguet name, Mes Favorites, the old-vine village Gevrey from vines averaging over sixty years, but in a vintage that's ready when you are. 2017 was a generous, charming year across Burgundy, the sort that gives supple, open wines you don't have to wait a decade for.

Alain Burguet built this domaine from scratch in the 1970s, farming hard and keeping yields low, and his sons carry that on. The old vines give Mes Favorites its concentration, while 2017's warmth rounds off the edges and brings the whole thing forward.

Expect plum and darker berry fruit on the nose, with cinnamon, clove and a whisper of soft game as it opens. The palate has lovely acidity keeping it fresh, sweet plum and a gentle spice through a finish that's more about charm than muscle. It's drinking beautifully now and over the next three or four years, so there's no need to cellar this one.

How to Serve

16C in a Burgundy bowl. A 2017 at this stage is open and giving, so a short decant is plenty, twenty minutes or so, mostly to wake it up.

Where to Drink It

• Noble Rot, Lamb's Conduit Street: a mature village Gevrey is exactly their language.
• Brat, Shoreditch: relaxed enough to just enjoy a bottle that's ready to go.
• The Wolseley: an easy, generous wine for a long lunch.

Food Pairings

Roast partridge, or a simple herb-roast chicken. Or lean into the spice notes with a plate of charcuterie and a good hunk of Comte.