Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Symphonie 2022 - 75cl

The name is not decoration. Symphonie is a wine built from around twenty separate parcels of old vines scattered across Gevrey-Chambertin, each bringing its own note, blended into one voice. It is the Burguets' statement of what their village can be.

Jean-Luc and Eric farm this land the way their father Alain taught them, and since 2011 they have worked organically and biodynamically — no herbicides, natural yeasts, a careful hand with sulphur. The parcels average several decades of age, aged in roughly a fifth to a third new oak, chosen to frame the fruit rather than mask it. This is village Gevrey with genuine intent behind it.

The 2022 shows the vintage at its most flattering. Aromas of pure red cherry and cranberry, a lift of violet and rose, and beneath that the darker, earthy signature Gevrey always carries. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully poised — that hallmark 2022 freshness threading through ripe fruit, with tannins that are present but polished and a finish that lingers on spice and stone. There is energy here, and real length.

This is a wine for a proper dinner, the kind where the food matters and the company lingers. Open it now with air, or tuck bottles away — it will reward five to eight years of patience.

How to Serve

Serve at 16°C. Decant an hour ahead if drinking young, or pour into large Burgundy glasses and give it time. The aromatics build in the glass.

Where to Drink It

The River Cafe, whose Italian cooking flatters mid-weight Pinot. Wiltons on Jermyn Street, for old-school game season. Brat in Shoreditch, where the wood fire suits Gevrey's savoury side.

Food Pairings

Roast duck breast, cooked pink, with a cherry or blackberry reduction — the wine and the sauce meet in the middle. Come autumn, a plate of roast partridge would be my choice.