Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet, Bourgogne, Les Pince Vin 2022 - 75cl

Bourgogne on the label, Gevrey in the glass. That is the trick with Les Pince Vin, and the Burguet brothers have been playing it well for years. The name loosely means "wine-pincher" — a nod to the vines that sit just outside the village lines, growing fruit that would happily pass for something grander.

Jean-Luc and Eric Burguet run the domaine their father Alain built from nothing in Gevrey-Chambertin during the 1970s, and this is the entry point to everything they do. The philosophy is quiet and consistent — full destemming, a light hand with new oak, no fining, no filtration, very little sulphur. What lands in the bottle is Pinot Noir left to speak for itself.

The 2022 arrives with the vintage's easy generosity. Expect a nose of raspberry and wild strawberry, a little crushed violet, a savoury undertow that hints at where these vines actually sit. The palate is bright and forward, red-fruited, with tannins that are ripe rather than grippy and a fresh line running through the middle that keeps it from tipping into sweetness. It finishes clean, faintly earthy, and asks for a second glass.

Drink this when you want serious Burgundy without the ceremony — a Tuesday that deserves better, a first bottle before the good stuff comes out. It rewards attention but never demands it.

How to Serve

Serve at 15-16°C, a touch cooler than room temperature. A large Burgundy bowl helps the aromatics open. No need to decant, though thirty minutes in the glass does it favours.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot Soho, where a grower Bourgogne like this belongs on the by-the-glass list. Dandy in Newington Green, for its knack with honest, low-intervention bottles. The Wolseley, if you want it with something classic and unfussy.

Food Pairings

Roast chicken with plenty of pan juices is the obvious call, and the right one. If you fancy something earthier, a plate of mushroom risotto meets that savoury edge head-on.