Glenfiddich 31 Year Old Grand Chateau (47.6%)

Nine years in Bordeaux red wine casks is not a finish, it is a second life. Glenfiddich laid down this single malt in American oak for 22 years, then moved it into ex-Bordeaux barriques for another nine, and the release runs to just 250 bottles worldwide at 47.6%. That is a long time to leave a spirit in wine wood, and the risk is exactly what makes the result so unusual.

Glenfiddich sits in Dufftown, in the heart of Speyside, and remains family-owned by William Grant & Sons. The house style leans towards orchard fruit and honey, but here it has been dressed in something darker. The Bordeaux casks pull the whisky away from the distillery's everyday register and into claret territory, all without losing the pear-and-vanilla backbone that made the name.

Expect warm vanilla on the nose first, then ripe cassis, a little floral lift and a piquant, nutty edge. The palate is where the wine casks earn their keep: caramelised cherries and baked apple wrapped around toasted oak and warming spice, with fine tannins giving grip rather than dryness. The finish is deep and slow. A few drops of water soften the tannin and let the fruit spread, though at 31 years it is already gentle.

This is a bottle for a landmark evening, opened with people who will notice what nine years in Bordeaux wood does to old Speyside whisky.

How to Serve

Neat, in a tulip glass or Glencairn, at room temperature. Give it ten minutes in the glass; add a drop or two of water only if you want to loosen the tannins.

Where to Drink It

The Connaught Bar for a quiet, precise setting that matches the whisky's age. Dukes Bar in St James's, where old and rare drams are treated with proper reverence. Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood, for a fireside pour with a little theatre.

Food Pairings

The claret-like fruit wants something savoury for contrast. A wedge of aged Comté is my pick, or a little cured game if you'd rather meet the darker, wine-cask edge head on.