Anne and Jean-François Vin de France Rouge J`en Veux Encore NV - 75cl

Jean-François Ganevat is a cult figure in the Jura, and one of the reference points for natural wine full stop. J'en Veux Encore — “I want more” — is exactly what the name promises: a glugging, joyful red bottled under the Vin de France label with his sister Anne, blending Gamay from Fleurie with Jura fruit including Pinot Noir.

It is made the natural way — whole clusters, a semi-carbonic ferment with native yeasts, no added sulphur, unfined and unfiltered. The result is all bright, high-toned fruit: cherry, pomegranate and cranberry, with a flick of white pepper. Light, juicy and mouth-wateringly fresh, it is the definition of a wine you finish and immediately want more of. There is earthy, mineral detail underneath if you look for it, but honestly this is a bottle for pleasure, not analysis.

Drink it now, and drink it cool. Being a non-vintage blend, it is made to be enjoyed on release, not cellared.

How to Serve

Serve properly chilled, 12–14°C. A light natural red like this is transformed by cold; a standard glass and no decant. Give the bottle a gentle swirl if there's a little sediment.

Where to Drink It

Planque in Haggerston, a natural-wine haven that would happily pour this by the glass. Or P. Franco in Lower Clapton for the same low-intervention spirit.

Food Pairings

Charcuterie and cornichons, eaten with your fingers. It is also brilliant, slightly chilled, with a roast chicken picnic.