Barolo La Pira, Roagna 2020 75cl

The 2020 La Pira sees Roagna working with a warmer, more open vintage than the structured 2018, and the result is a Barolo with a touch more early charm while keeping the family's trademark tension. Same single vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, same old vines, same refusal to rush anything.

Luca Roagna farms organically and ferments with indigenous yeast, then ages the wine in large botti for several years before it ever reaches a shelf. La Pira is made in vanishingly small volumes, which is part of why it has become such a collector favourite among traditional Barolo drinkers.

In the glass it is pale and perfumed: dried roses, red cherry, orange peel, tar and a savoury note of dried herbs and undergrowth. The palate carries the classic Nebbiolo grip, with chalky tannins and bright acidity framing red fruit that is a shade riper than in cooler years. It still needs time, though it may show its charm a little sooner.

At around £230 this is a wine to cellar with intent. Drink from 2027 through to the late 2030s, and reward it with patience.

How to Serve

Serve at 16-18C in a large Burgundy bowl. Decant for at least two hours; a long slow air is its friend.

Where to Drink It

Trullo in Highbury for handmade pasta. Bocca di Lupo in Soho for regional Italian. Noble Rot in Bloomsbury for a knowing wine list.

Food Pairings

Roast guinea fowl with wild mushrooms, or a rich beef and porcini braise.