Albert Mann, Cuvee Albert Pinot Gris 2019 - 75cl
The Barthelmé brothers farm Domaine Albert Mann biodynamically from their base in Wettolsheim, and Cuvée Albert is where their approach shows its everyday face — serious wine without the grand cru price tag. This is Pinot Gris grown on the varied soils around Colmar, picked ripe but kept dry, which is exactly how the grape rewards you when a good grower is at the wheel.
Pinot Gris in Alsace is a richer, rounder animal than the crisp Italian style, and this 2019 leans into that generosity. Expect ripe pear and white peach on the nose, a touch of honeyed apricot, and a wisp of smoky stone underneath. The palate is full and gently creamy, but there's real acidity holding the line, so it never tips into heaviness. It finishes long, with candied ginger, toasted almond and a wet-stone freshness that keeps you coming back.
This is a wine for the table more than the aperitif hour — it has the weight to stand up to properly flavoured food. Drink it now while the fruit is bright, or give it two or three more years to build texture. At this price it drinks well above its station.
How to Serve
Chill to 8-10°C and pour into a decent tulip-shaped white wine glass, roomy enough to catch the aromas. Give it five minutes in the glass and let your hand warm it slightly — the perfume opens up as it does. Skip the ice bucket if you can; steady fridge chilling suits it better.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot in Lamb's Conduit Street, where an Alsace white like this feels right at home on the by-the-glass list. Bentley's for oysters and something rounder than the usual Chablis. The Wolseley for a leisurely lunch where the food is generous enough to meet it.
Food Pairings
My instinct here is anything with a hint of spice and richness — a Thai green curry, or roast pork loin with apple. It also loves a plate of charcuterie and a wedge of Munster if you're feeling properly Alsatian.
