The townhouse was already busy before the first cork was pulled, our fullest house yet. Then again, with Ruinart involved, it was never likely to be a quiet one.

Guided by Brand Ambassador Angele, who kept things relaxed but informative, we picked up a few useful details along the way, Ruinart, as it turns out, being the oldest Champagne house.

We started with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, fresh, bright, easy to like, paired with shredded butter chicken in cucumber cups, lifted by candied chilli and coriander cress. Unexpected, yes. Entirely convincing, also yes.

Next came Ruinart Rosé, alongside beetroot-cured salmon, black pepper blini, crème fraîche and pickled shallot, a pairing that felt spot on for the wine.

We finished with Dom Ruinart 2010, more structured, a bit more serious, served with beetroot meringue, whipped goat’s cheese and pickled walnut. A good place to land.

A packed room, plenty of good conversation, and a reminder: Champagne tends to draw a crowd.