Suntory Toki – 70cl

Toki means time, and the blend draws on three Suntory distilleries at once: Hakushu in the forested foothills of the Southern Japanese Alps, Yamazaki outside Kyoto, and the Chita grain distillery on the coast. Unusually, it is Hakushu's lightly peated malt that forms the backbone rather than Yamazaki's — most Suntory blends lean the other way.

That choice is why Toki tastes as it does. Hakushu brings green apple, a cucumber-like freshness and a thread of herbal smoke. Yamazaki's sherry-cask malt adds depth and a little dried fruit. Chita's grain whisky is the soft, sweet, vanilla-ish thing that binds the two together and stops the blend getting heavy.

The nose is bright: grapefruit and yuzu peel, white flowers, honey. The palate follows with green apple and vanilla, then a dusting of white pepper and ginger, and the faintest curl of smoke right at the back — there, but you have to look for it. It finishes clean and gently peppery, short to medium.

Suntory built this for the highball and made no secret of it. Treated that way it is among the better value bottles on the shelf. Sipped neat it is pleasant enough, but you may wonder what the fuss is about.

How to Serve

Highball, done properly: a tall glass packed to the top with ice, one part whisky to three of cold sparkling water, stirred once, a lemon peel expressed over the surface. The ice has to be cold and plentiful or the drink goes flat and watery.

Where to Drink It

Bar Lotus, where the highball is taken as seriously as it should be. Soho Whisky Club for a neat pour and a proper look at the Hakushu side of it. The American Bar at The Savoy for a beautifully built version of whatever you ask for.

Food Pairings

Yakitori, the chicken skin especially — salt, char and fat against a cold highball is one of the better things you can do on a Tuesday. Smoked almonds if you are drinking it neat.