Hakushu 12 - 70cl
Hakushu is Suntory's mountain distillery, sat high in the forests of the Southern Japanese Alps, and the 12-year-old is the expression that made its name abroad. Where Yamazaki leans into sherry and depth, Hakushu goes the other way: green, fresh, lightly peated, the kind of whisky that feels like it was bottled outdoors.
The peat here is the key to the whole thing. It is gentle, more bonfire-at-a-distance than Islay smokestack, and it sits behind a wall of fresh green notes rather than in front of them. You get cut grass, mint leaf, green apple and a faint herbal coolness on the nose, with a wisp of smoke threading underneath.
The palate keeps that crisp, almost garden-fresh character. Pear and green melon arrive first, then a little soft pepper and a creamy vanilla note from the American oak. The smoke builds slowly through the middle without ever taking over, and the finish is clean and cooling, drying out with green tea and a last curl of that woodsmoke. It is delicate but not thin, and it holds its shape even when you take your time over it.
If you have only known Japanese whisky through richer, sweeter blends, this is the one that shows the other side of the country's style.
How to Serve
Hakushu was practically designed for a highball. Build it tall over plenty of ice with chilled soda and a few mint leaves, and the smoke and freshness lift beautifully. Neat in a tulip glass works too, with a couple of drops of water to open the herbal notes.
Where to Drink It
Track down a serious highball at Sexy Fish in Mayfair, settle in at TT Liquor in Shoreditch, or work through the Japanese list at Murakami in Covent Garden.
Food Pairings
Made for sushi and sashimi, especially salmon and sea bass. Also lovely with grilled chicken yakitori, tempura vegetables, or a plate of fresh oysters.
