Pinot Noir Ctvrte

Čtvrťe is a single vineyard tract in Moravia, and this is Jaroslav Springer's Pinot Noir from it — the man also trades as Stapleton-Springer, a Czech-American venture that has quietly become one of the country's most respected Pinot addresses. If you think great Pinot Noir stops at the French border, this bottle is a gentle correction.

The fruit grows in the Velkopavlovická sub-region around Bořetice and Vrbice, on clay and loess at a couple of hundred metres. Farming is certified organic with biodynamic leanings, and the cellar work is deliberately restrained: minimal sulphur, native character preserved, then up to around 18 months in barrique. The result reads more Burgundian than you might expect from Central Europe.

In the glass it shows black cherry and strawberry with a subtle spice and cedar lift, and a thread of darker damson underneath. The texture is the selling point — velvety and harmonious, juicy, with low tannins and a long, moreish finish. At 13% it stays light on its feet, the sort of Pinot that empties the bottle before you've noticed.

This is a wine for the curious drinker — someone who wants genuine Pinot finesse from an unexpected place. Serve it to a Burgundy lover without saying where it's from and enjoy the double-take.

How to Serve

Serve lightly cool, 14 to 16°C, in a Burgundy-style glass. No decant needed; give it a few minutes in the glass. Drink over the next few years.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot, for Pinot among people who'll appreciate the surprise. Planque, natural-leaning and Pinot-friendly. The Wolseley, if you want it with an easy, unhurried supper.

Food Pairings

Roast chicken with tarragon is a lovely match. I'd also reach for it with a plate of charcuterie and cornichons, the acidity keeping everything fresh.