Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras, As Caborcas 2020 - 75cl

Only 2,664 bottles of the 2020 As Caborcas ever left the cellar, which tells you most of what you need to know about how Telmo Rodriguez treats this corner of Valdeorras. It comes from Ladeiras do Bibei, a stack of terraces above the Bibei river planted to a field blend of old vines at 550 to 600 metres. Mencia, Merenzao, Sousón, Garnacha and a little Godello grow tangled together and are picked as one.

Rodriguez spent two decades resurrecting forgotten Spanish vineyards, and this is Galicia at its wildest. The soil is decomposed granite the locals call sábrego, and the river throws a cool Atlantic draught up the slope that keeps everything taut. Native-yeast fermentation, then 15 months in big old French foudres before it goes to bottle unfined and unfiltered.

Expect an aromatic, almost floral red — violets and wild forest berries up front, then grilled herbs, white pepper and a savoury, gamey edge underneath. The tannins are silky and the acidity keeps the whole thing dancing. It is medium-bodied at most, more about tension and length than weight, and the granite shows as a cool mineral streak on a very long finish.

A wine for people who already love Galician reds and want the serious version. Drink it now with air, or hold five to eight years and let the savoury notes deepen.

How to Serve

Serve at 15 to 16°C — a touch cooler than room temperature keeps the aromatics lifted. Decant an hour ahead; it is coiled tight on opening and rewards patience. Use a Burgundy bowl to gather the perfume.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot in Lamb's Conduit Street, where the list rewards this kind of curiosity. Planque in Haggerston for its low-intervention leanings. Bright in Hackney, which pours exactly this sort of grower red.

Food Pairings

Roast partridge or a plate of jamón and grilled padrón peppers. If you are cooking, a rare duck breast with its skin crisped up plays beautifully off the wine's herbal, peppery side.