Envinate, Ribeira Sacra, Lousas Parcela Rosende 2021 - 75cl

Envinate began as four friends who met studying oenology and now farm a scattering of old-vine parcels across Spain's Atlantic edge, working with minimal intervention and a fierce respect for place. The Lousas range comes from Ribeira Sacra in Galicia, where Mencia clings to terraces of decomposed slate above the Sil and Mino rivers. Parcela Rosende is the more earthen, savoury bottling in the line: the floral side that marks the other Lousas cuvees is dialled back here, and what remains is grip and stone. The cool, wet 2021 vintage across Galicia suits this restraint.

Whole-cluster fermentation and old-oak ageing give a wine of real transparency at just 12.5 per cent alcohol. The nose is autumnal and mineral, all crunchy dried leaf, mountain wildflower held in check, and a powerful slatey lift. The palate is bright and pure, bringing pure cherry fruit, crushed red berry and a savoury undertow, the tannins fine and the acidity crisp and singing. It finishes long and resonant, more about tension than weight. Drink it over the next five or six years; a light chill flatters it. This is a red for people who like their wine with pulse and a sense of somewhere specific.

How to Serve

Serve cool, 13 to 15C, in a medium glass. No need to decant; a slight chill sharpens the minerality and fruit.

Where to Drink It

Planque in Haggerston, built for low-intervention bottles like this.
Dandy at Maltby Street, for the natural-leaning crowd.
Brat in Shoreditch, alongside something off the fire.

Food Pairings

Grilled octopus with smoked paprika and potato, straight from the Galician playbook.