Rémy Martin XO Cognac 70cl

Rémy Martin's XO is a blend of up to 400 different eaux-de-vie, the oldest around 37 years in cask. That kind of library is the whole point of an XO — the cellar master is painting from an enormous palette rather than a handful of barrels.

Like the VSOP, it carries the Fine Champagne designation: roughly 85% Grande Champagne and 15% Petite Champagne, the two most prized crus in the region. XO (Extra Old) is a legal category too — since 2018 the youngest spirit in the bottle must be at least ten years old, and Rémy Martin's runs well beyond that, aged in French oak.

The colour is deep mahogany with opal glints. There's an opening rush of flower and ripe fruit, then it unfolds — ripe plum and candied orange, warm spice and hazelnut, before a finish of roasted cocoa and honeyed gingerbread. Rich and layered without ever turning heavy.

At around £210 this is the point where cognac stops being a mixer and becomes something you sit with. It's a benchmark XO and a safe, generous gift for anyone who takes their brandy seriously.

How to Serve

Neat, always, in a tulip glass at room temperature. Give it a few minutes to open. No ice, no water — there's too much detail here to dilute.

Where to Drink It

Boisdale of Belgravia, where a good cognac and a cigar terrace go hand in hand. The American Bar at The Savoy for the occasion. Artesian at The Langham for a nightcap that feels like an event.

Food Pairings

Try it with a rich chocolate dessert, or simply beside a strong coffee and a square of praline to echo the cocoa and gingerbread.