Pol Roger, Brut Reserve NV

Pol Roger remains one of the last family-owned houses in Épernay, and the White Foil — the Brut Réserve — is the bottle that made its name for reliability. This is a house Champagne rather than a grower's, but it earns its keep: an even split of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier drawn from around twenty villages, with roughly a quarter reserve wine folded in to hold the style steady year to year.

Each grape pulls its weight. Chardonnay brings the citrus and the backbone, Pinot Noir the depth and structure, Meunier the round, orchard-fruit softness that makes it easy to drink young. Pol Roger ages it on the lees for close to four years — well beyond the minimum — and disgorges at a dosage around eight grams, so it reads as classic Brut rather than lean.

The nose is apple and white peach with brioche and a light gunflint edge; the palate is fine-mousséd and gently creamy, apple and pear over a honeyed almond note, the acidity keeping it fresh through a clean, dry finish. It is polished without being showy, which is rather the house's whole point.

An apéritif that never lets you down, and good enough to carry through a meal.

How to Serve

Chill to 8-10°C. Reach for a white-wine glass over a flute — this has the complexity to justify it. Drink on release or keep a few years; it takes bottle age well.

Where to Drink It

Wiltons, Jermyn Street — old-school, and Pol Roger belongs there. Scott's, Mount Street — shellfish and a glass of White Foil. The Wolseley, Piccadilly — the archetypal Champagne-and-oysters stop.

Food Pairings

Smoked salmon, or roast chicken with all the trimmings.