Catullo Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore, Bertani 2021 75cl
Ripasso is sometimes called "baby Amarone", and this Catullo shows exactly why. Bertani take a Valpolicella base and re-pass it over the pomace left from Amarone production, so the wine effectively ferments a second time and picks up extra colour, body and depth in the process.
The blend leans on Corvina Veronese with Corvinone and a little Rondinella, all from the Classico zone in the hills above Verona. Named after the Roman poet Catullus, who came from these parts, it's Bertani's everyday-into-special crossover — more structure than a straight Valpolicella, more approachable than the Amarone that lends it its skins.
On the nose you get cherry and sour cherry with a dusting of white pepper, then the sweeter spice and sandalwood the oak brings. The palate is medium-bodied and dry, with red and dark cherry, strawberry and an earthy, peppery savouriness. Tannins are silky, the drinkability is easy, and the finish stays fresh and soft rather than heavy.
At £31.99 it's a smart buy — real Veneto character and a step up in seriousness from the basic Valpolicellas, without the Amarone price tag. This is a proper midweek red that punches above its station.
How to Serve
Serve at 16–18°C. It doesn't need a decant, though twenty minutes of air won't hurt. A medium-to-large bowl suits it.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot in Bloomsbury for something bistro-ish and generous. Dandy on Maltby Street for a lively evening. Or Planque in Haggerston, where the list rewards curiosity.
Food Pairings
Sausage ragu over pappardelle is the natural home. A pizza piled with cured meats works too — the cherry fruit and gentle grip handle both with ease.
