Mahi Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024 - 75cl

Brian Bicknell spent years making wine elsewhere before he and Nicola started Mahi in Marlborough in 2001, and it shows in the restraint here. This is Sauvignon Blanc for people who think they've had enough Sauvignon Blanc — built for texture and depth rather than the usual wall of gooseberry.

The fruit comes off six different vineyards across the Wairau, each pulling the blend in its own direction. A small slice was fermented in seasoned French barriques, and roughly a fifth went through wild native ferment, which is where that savoury, slightly saline edge comes from. There's even a whisper of Semillon in the mix. Nothing about it is heavy-handed.

In the glass you'll find lemon peel and grapefruit pith over apple blossom, with a lanolin, almost waxy note that lifts it out of the ordinary. The palate is creamy and medium-bodied, the acidity bright and mouth-watering, and it finishes on lime leaf and a touch of sea salt. It tastes like someone thought carefully about every decision.

Open it when you want a white with something to say — a quiet Friday, a long lunch, a bottle you actually notice. At around £17 it drinks well above its price.

How to Serve

Chill to 8–10°C and pour into a decent white wine glass rather than a small flute — it needs room to show the texture. No decanting required; give it ten minutes out of the fridge if it comes out fridge-cold.

Where to Drink It

Bentley's for oysters and a seat at the marble counter. Scott's for a plate of dressed crab. J Sheekey when you want the fish and the buzz in equal measure.

Food Pairings

It loves shellfish — grilled prawns, a pot of mussels, or a dozen rock oysters. I'd also pour it with roast chicken and a lemony green salad; the acidity cuts right through the skin.