Mahi Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023 - 75cl
Mahi means work in Māori, and Brian Bicknell has put plenty of it into this wine since founding the estate in 2001. He learned his trade the long way round — chief winemaker at Errázuriz in Chile, then senior winemaker at Seresin — before setting up on the old Cellier Le Brun site in Marlborough to chase site expression with a light hand.
This is 100% Pinot Noir, and pointedly not single-vineyard. The 2023 blends four sites: the bulk from Twin Valleys for structure, with Ward, The Wrekin and Calrossie adding lifted fruit and darker depth. It's hand-picked, wild-fermented with around 30% whole bunches, given three weeks on skins and then 15 months in French barrique. Usually bottled unfiltered, sealed under screw cap.
2023 was a cool, damp season across New Zealand, but Marlborough dodged the worst of Cyclone Gabrielle and a settled, sunny autumn saved the day. Pinot came in naturally balanced. Expect wild raspberry and dark cherry over a whiff of forest floor, with river-stone freshness and a savoury, spiced edge. The tannins are fine, the acidity focused, the mouthfeel creamy but not heavy.
It's a properly grown-up Marlborough Pinot at a fair price — the kind of bottle that makes you reconsider the region beyond Sauvignon Blanc. Drink it over the next few years.
How to Serve
Serve lightly cool, around 14 to 16°C, in a Burgundy-style glass. No decant needed, though 20 minutes open won't hurt. Best over the next four or five years.
Where to Drink It
The Wolseley, for a Pinot that suits an unhurried supper. J Sheekey, where it flatters a fish main. Planque in east London, if you want it among genuine Pinot enthusiasts.
Food Pairings
Roast duck with cherries is a gift for this wine. I'd also happily drink it with seared salmon — the fruit and gentle savouriness handle the richness without overwhelming it.
