Some gifts say thank you. Others say let’s open something special and linger a while. This one does both. First, Collection 245 NV: Roederer’s modern house champagne. Bright, polished and effortlessly sociable, with citrus, crisp orchard fruit and a gentle brioche warmth. Then the flourish: Vintage Rosé 2017. Silky and expressive, full of wild strawberries, blood orange and delicate floral notes, the sort of rosé that makes dessert feel like an event. One for the opening toast, one for the long lunch that follows. Because when the moment matters, champagne tends to be the right answer.