Lison Classico, Villa Bogdano 1880 2022 75cl

Lison Classico is one of Italy's quiet treasures, made from Tocai Friulano in the small heartland zone that gives the wine its DOCG. Villa Bogdano's 2022 is a textured, savoury white for anyone who has tired of neutral Italian whites and wants something with grip.

The Classico designation marks the historic core of the appellation on the Veneto-Friuli border, and Villa Bogdano farms it biodynamically on clay-rich soils. Tocai Friulano is a variety with real personality: broad, nutty and structured rather than merely fresh.

The wine pours a bright straw-gold and opens with white flowers, ripe pear, yellow apple and the grape's signature note of bitter almond. The palate is where it earns its keep, with a rounded, slightly waxy texture, ripe acidity and a savoury, saline finish that lingers on almond skin and a touch of hay. Distinctive stuff.

At £29.99 this is a considered white that punches above its category, ideal for anyone building a more adventurous cellar. Drink over the next two to three years while its fruit and texture are singing.

How to Serve

Serve at 10-12°C in a larger white wine glass to let the texture show. A short decant does no harm.

Where to Drink It

Bocca di Lupo for authentic north-eastern Italian dishes. Lino for its produce-led plates. Noble Rot in Soho for adventurous by-the-glass drinkers.

Food Pairings

Superb with prosciutto San Daniele and melon. Also excellent alongside roast chicken with herbs.