185 Bianco, Villa Bogdano 1880 2018 75cl
185 is Villa Bogdano's ambitious take on Tocai Friulano, a barrel-influenced, extended-lees white made to age rather than to gulp. The 2018 has had time to knit together, and it rewards a proper glass and a little thought.
The estate near Lison in eastern Veneto works biodynamically, and 185 represents its top-tier white winemaking: longer skin contact and lees ageing that build weight, complexity and a gently oxidative edge. This is Friulano stretched toward its most serious, textural form.
Expect a deeper gold hue and a nose that runs from baked apple and quince to dried apricot, hazelnut, beeswax and a savoury waft of chamomile. The palate is broad and creamy, with a nutty, almost sherried richness balanced by firm acidity and a long, saline, almond-tinged finish. There is real depth here for those who enjoy a white with texture and grip.
At £39.99 this is a serious, characterful bottle for the curious drinker. It is drinking well now and will hold and evolve over the next three to five years.
How to Serve
Serve at 11-13°C in a large white or light Burgundy glass. Decant 30 minutes to open the aromatics.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot for lovers of textured, low-intervention whites. Bocca di Lupo for regional Italian pairings. Lino for its ingredient-driven menu.
Food Pairings
Try it with roast pork belly and apple, or a plate of aged Montasio cheese and walnuts.
