Roty's Marsannay blend, from Champs Saint-Étienne and Boivin, is no wallflower. It's bold and ample, marrying ripe white peach with a stony grip and a salty, clipped finish that doesn't overstay its welcome. The 2020 vintage, harvested early in September, packs a punch with concentrated flavors and a superb length that Pierre-Jean insists is built for the long haul—a true 'grand millésime de garde.' Ready your cellar; this one's a keeper.