Joseph Roty, Marsannay, Blanc 2020 - 75cl
Domaine Joseph Roty made its name on old-vine Gevrey-Chambertin, so a white from the family is something of a sidestep, and a rewarding one. Marsannay sits at the northern end of the Cote de Nuits, a village better known for red, which means its Chardonnay tends to fly under the radar and price accordingly. This one is 100% Chardonnay, drawn from two parcels, Boivin and Champs St Etienne.
Marsannay's soils give a white with more cut than plush, and Roty's version leans into that. Rather than a rich, oak-forward Burgundy, it is built around minerality and line. The nose is quietly citrus-led, ripe but not showy, with a chalky edge behind it. The palate has a mineral width that makes it more interesting than a straight Bourgogne Blanc, flavours of lemon and orchard fruit carried on fresh acidity, finishing clean and stony rather than long and buttery.
It is a white for the table more than for contemplation: precise, dry and refreshing, the kind of Burgundy you actually want a second glass of. Drink it over the next two to four years, while that citrus freshness is at its best; there is no need to cellar it for the long haul.
How to Serve
Serve at 10-12°C in a white Burgundy glass. Too cold and the minerality and fruit close down, so take it out of the fridge a few minutes before pouring and let it open in the glass.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot in Soho, whose Burgundy list runs deep. The River Cafe in Hammersmith for the simple, precise Italian cooking this suits. The Wolseley on Piccadilly for a plate of oysters or a Dover sole.
Food Pairings
Roast chicken with lemon and tarragon is the natural match here. It also works with grilled Dover sole, a goat's cheese tart, or a plate of smoked salmon and brown bread.
