Joseph Roty, Côte de Nuits-Villages, Rouge 2020 - 75cl

The Rotys have been making wine in Gevrey-Chambertin since 1710. That's not a typo, and it makes this one of the oldest family domaines in all of Burgundy. They're best known for grand cru Charmes and Griotte-Chambertin at collector prices, which makes a Cote de Nuits-Villages like this the affordable door into the house.

Don't let the humble appellation fool you. Roty farm some of the oldest vines in Burgundy, averaging around sixty-five years, and they pick late to concentrate the fruit even further. 2020 was a landmark vintage in the Cote de Nuits, small and concentrated but full of energy, and this cuvee over-delivers for what it is.

In the glass it's all cherry and raspberry with a lift of rose petal, then a faint smoky spice from the barrel. The palate is medium to full, fleshy and suave, with lively acidity and fine, refined tannins. There's real texture here for the money, the kind of thing that makes people reassess what a villages wine can be. Drink it over the next five or six years. It's approachable now, but 2020's concentration means there's no rush at all.

How to Serve

16C in a Burgundy bowl. Half an hour's air brings the perfume out, though it doesn't strictly need decanting to show well.

Where to Drink It

• Planque, Haggerston: a cellar list where a clever villages wine gets noticed.
• Brat, Shoreditch: wood-fired cooking to match the wine's fleshy fruit.
• Dandy on Maltby Street: an easy, characterful bottle for a relaxed evening.

Food Pairings

A weeknight hero with roast chicken and mushrooms, or a bowl of pappardelle under a slow-cooked beef ragu.