Federico Graziani, Mareneve, Terre Siciliane IGT 2020 - 150cl

At nearly 1,200 metres up the north-west flank of Mount Etna, above where most vines will grow, Federico Graziani planted a vineyard to see what cold-climate grapes would do on volcanic rock at altitude. Mareneve is the answer, and this is the magnum, so it is built for a table with people around it.

Graziani was named Italy's best sommelier in 1998 and spent years reading wine lists for chefs like Cracco and Marchesi before making his own. His plot at Contrada Nave, near Bronte, is a genuine field blend: Etna's native Carricante and Grecanico grown head-trained alongside northern European varieties that suit the cold, namely Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc. It sits under the Terre Siciliane IGT because that mix falls outside the stricter Etna Bianco rules. The wine ferments in steel, skips malolactic to keep its edge, then rests eighteen months on fine lees before bottling.

Expect rose and broom on the nose, then a volcanic streak of ash, bergamot and grapefruit. The palate lands with a brief aromatic softness before the site takes over: biting acidity, a long saline pull and a cool, stony persistence that Graziani likens to snow and sea. High-altitude Etna white at full stretch. The magnum format suits a long lunch and rewards a couple more years of bottle age.

How to Serve

Serve at 10-12°C in a large white glass. As a magnum it warms slowly, so it is forgiving on the table; open it thirty minutes ahead to let the volcanic and citrus notes settle.

Where to Drink It

Brat in Shoreditch, this against the whole grilled turbot. Noble Rot Soho for the Etna geeks. Bentley's for a magnum over a long seafood lunch.

Food Pairings

Raw scallops or a plate of crudo let the salinity sing. I also pour it with grilled sardines, and it cuts through fritto misto exactly the way you want.