Dominio Aguila, Ribera del Duero, Picaro Aguila Tinto 2021 - 75cl

Ribera del Duero has a reputation for muscle and new oak, so Jorge Monzón's Pícaro del Águila Tinto comes as a genuine surprise — a red built on freshness, detail and old vines rather than power for its own sake.

Monzón trained at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy before a spell at Vega Sicilia, and both halves of that education show. From his base in La Aguilera he farms old parcels organically, the vines well past fifty years and some far older, planted the traditional way as a mixed field blend. Tempranillo — Tinto Fino here — leads, but it's co-fermented with whatever the old plots carry: Garnacha, Bobal, a little white Albillo tossed in for lift and perfume. Whole bunches go into concrete tanks in the coldest corner of his underground cellar, the cap worked by foot, before ageing in French oak. It's an old-Rioja, old-Ribera way of working, revived by someone who knows exactly why it matters.

The result smells of dark berries, dried herbs and something floral, with a savoury, almost dusty earthiness underneath. On the palate it's medium-bodied and vivid — bright acidity, fine chalky tannins, red and black fruit that stays taut rather than jammy. The Albillo shows as a lift on the finish. This punches well above its price, and for the money there's little in Ribera doing anything this thoughtful.

A wine for a relaxed evening with good food and no ceremony, though it's serious enough to reward a closer look.

How to Serve

Serve at 15-16°C in a medium bowl. A short 20-minute decant helps; it's approachable young and doesn't need coaxing.

Where to Drink It

Dandy, for its low-key, food-first energy. Noble Rot, where a wine this characterful earns its place on the list.

Food Pairings

Roast lamb is the obvious match and a very good one. I'd also try it with jamón and aged Manchego if you want to keep it Spanish and simple.