Domaine Larue, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, La Garenne 2020 - 75cl

La Garenne climbs the hillside above Puligny-Montrachet, higher and cooler than the grand crus below it, which is exactly why the wine keeps its nerve. Domaine Larue, a family estate rooted in neighbouring Saint-Aubin, farms some very old vines here, and this is white Burgundy that trades flashiness for precision.

The domaine works the Côte de Beaune, and the Larue family planted much of this parcel just after the war. Those wizened old vines throw small, concentrated grapes that give a Chardonnay with real power packed into a fine frame. Winemaking is classic and unshowy: barrel-fermented and aged, but with oak kept as seasoning rather than the main event.

The 2020 is crystalline, pale gold with a green cast. The nose is discreet at first, gently coaxing out baked apple, a little spice, a whisper of vanilla and caramel from the barrel. Give it time in the glass and it grows. The palate opens light and gentle, then builds volume through the middle before a long, precise finish with a genuine grip of minerality on the end. It is dry, energetic and taut rather than rich, the freshness carrying it well past the fruit. Approachable now with air, though it will reward five to eight years in the cellar.

How to Serve

Serve at 12-13°C, not fridge-cold, in a large Burgundy-style white glass. A young wine like this benefits from twenty minutes open, or a splash into a decanter, to let the fruit unfold.

Where to Drink It

The Wolseley for white Burgundy with proper occasion. Scott's in Mayfair, lobster and Chardonnay. Noble Rot Soho if you want the sommelier to talk you through the vintage.

Food Pairings

Lobster is the obvious call and it earns it. I also love it with roast chicken and a lemon-butter sauce, or a plate of Dover sole done simply.