Domaine d'Aurensan Carre de Fantômes Armagnac - 70cl

Most Armagnac leans dark, brooding and oaky. Carré des Fantômes goes the other way — pale, airy and floral — and it's all the more intriguing for it. Bottled at 46%, this Bas-Armagnac from Domaine d'Aurensan is built from a blend of old, rare Gascon grapes: Plant de Graisse, Mauzac Blanc, Meslier St François, Jurançon Blanc, Mauzac Rosé and Clairette de Gascogne. That botanical spread is what gives it such an unusual voice.

Bas-Armagnac is the finest of the three Armagnac zones, its sandy soils giving a lighter, more perfumed style of brandy. Aurensan farms a small holding in Gascony and works in an old-fashioned, hands-off way — you can taste it.

The nose is orchard fruit and apple blossom, salted-caramel sweetness, a little honey and linden flower. On the palate it comes in fresh and lively: juicy pear, apricot and peach, then wildflower honey and a touch of quince paste. There's an oxidative, slightly nutty edge that shows the years in cask without any heaviness. It genuinely reminds you of a fine, lightly aged agricole in places. Water isn't needed at this strength, though a drop rounds the finish.

Open this when you want to show someone that Armagnac can be delicate and surprising, not just powerful.

How to Serve

Neat, room temperature, in a tulip glass to gather those floral aromatics. No ice.

Where to Drink It

Artesian at The Langham, for a bar that appreciates the unusual. Dukes Bar in St James's for the classic digestif ritual. Boisdale of Belgravia, if you like your brandy with a bit of theatre.

Food Pairings

Lovely with a slice of almond and pear tart, or simply a few salted marcona almonds after dinner.