Brendan Stater-West, Saumur, Breze Blanc 2020 - 75cl

Brendan Stater-West is an American who fell for the Loire and stayed. He learned the ropes alongside Romain Guiberteau in Saumur, and the pupil now makes some of the most precise Chenin Blanc coming out of Brezé, the limestone hill that has quietly become the appellation's most talked-about terroir.

This bottling comes off L'Ardillon, a single south to south-west facing parcel of old vines planted in the 1960s. Beneath about eighty centimetres of clay and loam sits Turonian limestone, and you can taste the rock. Fermentation happens in stainless steel over three weeks, after which the wine spends twelve months on fine lees in older barrels, then a further six months back in tank. The cellar runs cold and the pH is low, so malolactic never kicks in; the wine goes to bottle unfined, unfiltered and barely sulphured.

The nose opens on flint and cracked white pepper over a deep seam of crushed chalk. On the palate there's ruby grapefruit, dried citrus peel and a lick of clove, with just enough creamy lees texture woven through a mineral core. The acidity is sharp and purposeful, drawing the finish out long and saline. This is Chenin built on tension rather than opulence. Fine now, but it will unwind and gain honeyed depth over the next eight to ten years.

How to Serve

Serve at 10-12 degrees in a Burgundy-shaped glass to let the reduction lift. Young bottles genuinely benefit from a 30-minute decant. Do not serve it fridge-cold or you will mute the chalk.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot Soho, which champions serious Loire Chenin. Bouchon Racine near Farringdon for its bistro cooking. The River Cafe, where the wine's cut suits simple grilled fish.

Food Pairings

I would pour this alongside roast turbot or a whole grilled sole with brown butter and capers, letting the wine's chalk answer the fish. It is also lovely with a mature goat's cheese, the acidity slicing straight through.