Brendan Stater-West, Saumur, Rouge 2022 - 75cl
This is the wine Brendan Stater-West built his name on: his straight Saumur Rouge, the bottle that first told the wine world an American in the Loire was worth watching. Trained under Romain Guiberteau in Brézé, Stater-West makes Cabernet Franc with a lightness of touch that flatters the grape rather than bullies it. The 2022 is fresh, immediate and hugely likeable.
The fruit comes from the sandy-clay soils around Brézé, on the limestone-rich terroir that has made this corner of Saumur famous. Winemaking here is deliberately hands-off: fully destemmed grapes, a short six-day maceration with no pumping over or punching down, then six months in stainless steel to keep everything bright and unmarked by oak. It is a wine built for drinking pleasure, not for showing off.
Pour it and you get a rush of juicy red and purple fruit, pomegranate and strawberry, a scattering of violets and only the faintest whisper of Cabernet Franc's leafy side. The texture is soft and pliant at first, then firms up on a surprisingly long, structured finish. Fresh, floral and gently mineral, it is the kind of red that suits almost any table. Serve it cool, and do not be shy about opening it young.
How to Serve
Serve at 14-16°C, a light chill flattering its freshness, in a standard red glass. No decanting needed; this steel-aged red is bright and ready the moment it is poured.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot for its deep Loire loyalties. The Wolseley for an easy, elegant glass. J Sheekey, where a chilled Cab Franc works beautifully alongside the seafood.
Food Pairings
A joy with roast chicken and tarragon, the herb picking up the wine's floral side. It is equally good, lightly chilled, with a summer charcuterie board.
