Barolo La Pira, Roagna 2018 75cl
Roagna's La Pira comes from a single high vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, and the 2018 shows exactly why this family sits among Barolo's quiet cult names. Luca Roagna farms old vines organically, ferments with wild yeast and gives the wine years in large old Slavonian oak before release.
The Roagna philosophy is patient to the point of stubbornness. Nothing is rushed, nothing is polished for early drinking, and the wines carry the perfume and structure of traditional Barolo rather than any modern gloss. La Pira is one of their most sought-after crus, made in tiny quantities.
Expect a pale garnet colour and a nose that builds slowly: dried rose, wild cherry, tar, crushed herbs and a savoury undertow of leather and forest floor. The palate is all fine-grained tension. Tannins are firm and chalky, the acidity keeps everything taut, and the fruit sits behind a wall of structure that will take a decade to fully unwind.
This is a wine for patience. At around £260 it is a serious outlay, but La Pira is a genuine collector's Barolo that rewards long cellaring. Drink from 2028 onwards, ideally through the 2040s.
How to Serve
Serve at 16-18C in a large Burgundy-style bowl. Decant at least two hours ahead, or better, open it the night before.
Where to Drink It
Bocca di Lupo in Soho for a proper Piedmontese table. Trullo in Highbury for slow-cooked ragu. Noble Rot in Lamb's Conduit Street for the cellar treatment.
Food Pairings
Brasato al Barolo or a plate of tajarin with butter and white truffle when the season allows.
