186 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Villa Bogdano 1880 2017 75cl

Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is one of north-east Italy's great native reds, and Villa Bogdano's 2017 shows exactly why the locals never abandoned it. This is a dark, savoury, food-hungry wine with a wild streak that sets it apart from the international grapes.

Grown in the Lison-Pramaggiore zone on the Veneto-Friuli border, farmed biodynamically by the estate, Refosco takes its name from the red stalk of its bunches. It is a variety built for the table: deeply coloured, firmly acidic and unapologetically rustic in the best sense.

The glass shows a dense, inky purple and a nose of blackberry, black plum and sour cherry lifted by violet, black pepper, bitter herbs and a note of damp earth. The palate is medium-to-full, with brisk acidity, grippy tannins and a savoury, almost bloody finish that tails off on dark fruit and spice. Not a crowd-pleaser in the polished sense, but hugely rewarding with the right food.

At £39.99 this is a characterful, individual red for the curious drinker who values authenticity over gloss. Drink now through the next three to five years.

How to Serve

Serve at 16-18°C in a medium-to-large red glass. Decant 30-45 minutes to soften the tannins.

Where to Drink It

Bocca di Lupo for regional Italian cooking. Lino for its Italian small plates. Passo for a relaxed, rustic Italian dinner.

Food Pairings

Built for grilled sausages or a rich mushroom and polenta dish. Also cuts happily through cured meats and hard cheese.