The Loire is France's longest river and its most quietly brilliant wine region. It makes almost everything, does most of it beautifully, and somehow still flies under the radar. Long may that last, for those of us who like a bargain.

Follow the river from the Atlantic inland and the wines change at every bend: crisp and coastal at the mouth, honeyed and age-worthy in the middle, flinty and mineral by the time you reach Sancerre. One region, an entire cellar's worth of styles.

One River, Every Style

Bracing, oyster-friendly Muscadet near the sea. Gentle, graceful Cabernet Franc reds in Chinon and Saumur. Sparkling Crémant, luscious sweet wines, dry and off-dry whites. If a style exists, the Loire almost certainly makes a lovely version of it, usually for less than you would expect to pay.

The Two White Stars

Two whites carry the region's reputation. Sauvignon Blanc, in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, is all zip, citrus and gunflint. Chenin Blanc, in Vouvray, Saumur and Savennières, is the great chameleon: bone dry to honey sweet, and one of the longest-lived whites in France.

Freshness as a Superpower

The thread running through it all is freshness: lower alcohol, bright acidity and a lightness of touch that makes Loire wines some of the most food-friendly in France. Goat's cheese and Sancerre is a classic for a reason. Start there, then let the river lead you on.