Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos, Oremus 2016 50cl

Three puttonyos is the gentle end of Tokaji Aszú, and that makes it the perfect way in. This Oremus is sweet, yes, but it is the kind of poised, acid-driven sweetness that never cloys, from a region that has been making wine like this since long before Sauternes existed.

Oremus, owned by the Vega Sicilia family, sits at the heart of Tokaj in north-eastern Hungary. The wine is built the traditional way, with hand-picked botrytis-affected Aszú berries steeped into a dry base wine, the puttonyos number signalling the level of sweetness. This is a blend of Furmint, Hárslevelű, Zéta and a touch of aromatic Sárgamuskotály, aged in oak. The 2016 vintage gave clean, elegant botrytis.

In the glass it is deep gold. The nose offers apricot, orange marmalade and honey, with the classic Tokaji note of dried apricot and a little saffron. The palate is where the magic is: sweet and viscous, yes, but lifted by a searing thread of acidity that keeps it fresh, bright and utterly drinkable. Notes of quince, candied peel and a whisper of ginger carry into a long, clean finish.

At around £47 for a 50cl bottle this is honest value for a genuinely great dessert wine. Serve it well chilled, and don't wait for pudding. A wine this alive deserves an occasion.

How to Serve

Serve chilled at 8–10°C in a small white wine glass. No decanting. An open bottle keeps well in the fridge for a week or more.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot on Lamb's Conduit Street has the pedigree for it. The Quality Chop House would serve it with cheese. Otto's on Gray's Inn Road suits the occasion.

Food Pairings

A classic with blue cheese, especially Roquefort. Also lovely with a simple apricot tart.