Secco-Bertani Vintage Edition 2021 75cl

The story here starts in 1860, when Bertani broke with local tradition and made a dry red in a region then wedded to sweet wines. Secco simply means "dry", and this Vintage Edition is a direct descendant of that original French-inspired bottling — one of the oldest continuously made wines in the Veneto.

The blend is Corvina-led, with Sangiovese, a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah rounding it out. What sets it apart is the ageing: eighteen months in traditional Veronese 750-litre casks of chestnut and cherry wood, not oak, followed by six months in bottle. Those local woods give the wine its particular savoury, slightly spicy signature.

Pour it and you'll find redcurrant, blackberry and cocoa powder on the nose, lifted by black pepper, cloves and nutmeg. The palate leans savoury — sour cherry, black tea, a whisper of coffee bean on the finish — carried by fine, powdery tannins. It's medium-bodied and food-shaped rather than showy, the sort of red that tastes older and wiser than its price suggests.

At £22.99 this is seriously good value and a proper introduction to what Verona does beyond Amarone. Drink it over the next three or four years; there's no rush, but no need to wait either.

How to Serve

Serve at 16–18°C in a medium bowl. A short decant of twenty minutes lets the spice notes settle into focus.

Where to Drink It

The Wolseley for an unfussy supper. Bentley's if you're pairing it with something from the grill. Dandy on Maltby Street for a good-value night out.

Food Pairings

A herby roast chicken or a plate of grilled lamb chops. The savoury tannins and black-tea edge sit happily against both.