Roccalini, Barbaresco, Roccalini 2018 - 75cl
The Roccalini vineyard is a single cru in the commune of Barbaresco that the cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti rates among the most interesting in the whole appellation — and Paolo Veglio is, as far as anyone can tell, the only grower bottling it. His family fruit once went to Bruno Giacosa; since 2004 he has kept it for himself, working the traditional way under the guidance of Giacosa's old winemaker.
This is 100% Nebbiolo, spontaneously fermented on native yeast, given a long submerged-cap maceration and then aged in large old Slavonian casks — no small barrels, no make-up. The 2018 vintage was cooler and more classic than the riper years around it, which suits Barbaresco's perfumed side: this is an aromatic, elegant wine rather than a blockbuster.
The nose leads with strawberry and violet, white pepper and a note of chamomile. The palate is savoury and finely structured, with marked but fine tannin, high acidity and the tar-and-roses signature underneath. It has real drive without heaviness — Nebbiolo built for the table rather than the trophy cabinet.
A wine for those who already love Barolo and want to see the same grape turn lighter on its feet.
How to Serve
Serve at 16-18°C. Decant an hour to two hours ahead; the tannins want air. A large Burgundy or Nebbiolo glass captures the perfume. Approachable now and holding into the early 2030s.
Where to Drink It
The River Cafe, for Piedmontese-leaning Italian. Bocca di Lupo, whose northern Italian plates fit it well. Noble Rot, for a room that appreciates a grower's Barbaresco.
Food Pairings
Tajarin with butter and sage, or a plate of agnolotti — Piedmont on a fork. For something richer, braised beef cheek.
