Olivier Leflaive, Santenay, Rouge 2022 - 75cl
Olivier Leflaive built his name on white Burgundy — the house sits in Puligny-Montrachet, spiritual home of Chardonnay — but the reds are worth seeking out, and this village Santenay is a quietly lovely place to start. It is 100% Pinot Noir from the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, made in the house's négociant-éleveur style: fruit bought and vinified in-house by long-serving winemaker Franck Grux, whose signature is elegance and a restrained hand with oak.
Santenay is one of Burgundy's better-value village appellations, and 2022 was a generous, sunny vintage that played to its strengths — ripe, clear fruit and healthy yields, with enough freshness to keep everything in balance. This is approachable Burgundy, made to be enjoyed rather than hoarded.
Expect a silky, red-fruited Pinot — raspberry and cherry, a touch of earth, gentle spice — with fine, delicate tannins and a soft, fresh finish of decent length. It is not a wine that demands ceremony; it is the sort of bottle you open on a weeknight and are quietly glad of.
An honest introduction to red Burgundy from a house that knows the Côte de Beaune inside out.
How to Serve
Serve at 15-16°C, cellar-cool. A short 30-minute decant helps, though it is ready to enjoy on opening. A Burgundy bowl flatters the fruit. Drinking well now through the end of the decade.
Where to Drink It
The Wolseley, for an unhurried lunch. Noble Rot Soho, for Burgundy by the glass among friends. Dandy in Newington Green, for its easy way with good Pinot.
Food Pairings
Roast chicken with tarragon, or duck breast pink in the middle — either lets the Pinot's delicacy shine. A wedge of soft Brie works after.
