Georges, Château de Haute-Serre, Georges Vigouroux 2020 75cl

Cahors is where Malbec came from long before Argentina claimed it, and Château de Haute-Serre makes some of the most convincing modern examples. This cuvée, named for Georges Vigouroux, is a Malbec-led blend rounded out with Merlot, from the family estate the Vigourouxs have owned since 1977.

The vineyard sits at around 300 metres on Kimmeridgian clay-limestone laced with iron — a cooler, higher site than most of Cahors, which shows in the wine's freshness and grip. 2020 was a warm, high-quality vintage here, giving ripe fruit without losing the appellation's characteristic savoury edge. The wine is aged around a year in oak barrels alongside larger vats.

Expect a powerful nose of ripe cherry, blackcurrant coulís and spice. The palate is long and enveloping, velvety rather than aggressive, with the ripe dark fruit carried by tannins that are firm but never harsh. This is the Old World face of Malbec — more earth and structure, less sweet jam — and it's all the more interesting for it.

At £28.99 this is proper Cahors with real depth, a smart pick for anyone who finds New World Malbec a touch too plush. Drink it over the next five or six years; a little more age will soften the tannins further.

How to Serve

Serve at 16–18°C in a medium-to-large glass. Decant for an hour to let the savoury fruit and tannins relax.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot in Bloomsbury for its French-leaning list. Bentley's for something from the grill. Or Planque in Haggerston for a good-value evening.

Food Pairings

The regional classic is cassoulet or duck confit — what grows together goes together. Failing that, a peppery steak with plenty of black pepper.