Federico Graziani, Mareneve, Terre Siciliane IGT 2019 - 75cl
Federico Graziani had a wild idea: plant a vineyard at 1,200 metres on Mount Etna, higher than almost anyone dares, and see what cold-climate grapes would do in volcanic soil under a Sicilian sun. Mareneve — “sea and snow” — is the result, grown up in Contrada Nave near Bronte. This 2019 is the white: a field blend of Etna's native Carricante and Grecanico alongside unlikely northern guests like Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc.
The altitude and the black volcanic soil give a white of startling energy. The nose lifts with white rose and broom, then bergamot, grapefruit and an unmistakable note of ash and struck stone. On the palate it's dry, taut and mineral, with biting acidity and a saline persistence that seems to go on and on. Fermented in steel, held on its fine lees for a year and a half and given further bottle age, it has texture without any heaviness — all tension and drive.
This is a white for a curious drinker, one who likes their wine with nerve and a story. Serve it to someone who thinks they know Sicilian wine and watch them recalibrate.
How to Serve
Serve at 10–12°C in a white-wine glass. It's better a touch less cold than you'd think — the aromatics need room. No decant, but it opens over the meal.
Where to Drink It
The River Cafe for Italian cooking done properly. Bentley's for seafood. Noble Rot for an adventurous list.
Food Pairings
Grilled sea bass with lemon, or a plate of raw scallops. It also cuts through a rich pasta with bottarga.
