Domaine Y. Clerget, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos du Verseuil 2022 - 150cl

Clos du Verseuil is a walled monopole in the heart of Volnay — farmed by Domaine Y. Clerget alone, which is a rarity in a region where most vineyards are carved up between dozens of owners. Volnay is the Côte de Beaune's byword for finesse, and Thibaud Clerget, working vines his family has tended for generations, plays to exactly that. In magnum, the wine ages slower still and shows at its most graceful.

This is Pinot Noir at its most delicate. Red cherry and wild strawberry, a note of violet, a savoury thread of earth and gentle spice beneath. Silken tannins, bright acidity, a long and quietly persistent finish. Lovely already, but a magnum like this is really built for the cellar — give it five to ten years and it will only gain.

A bottle for a table that deserves it.

How to Serve

Serve at 15–16°C in large Burgundy glasses. Decant an hour ahead for a young magnum.

Where to Drink It

Noble Rot for the list. Scott's (Mayfair) for occasion. Or The River Cafe for a long lunch.

Food Pairings

Roast guinea fowl or poussin keeps things in proportion. A dish of wild mushrooms brings out the wine's earthy side.