Depaz Rhum XO - 70cl
Depaz Rhum XO is Martinique agricole — distilled not from molasses but from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, which is what puts the agricole in rhum agricole and gives Depaz its grassy, mineral edge. The estate sits on the volcanic slopes of Mont Pelee above Saint-Pierre, and the cane grown on that black soil is the whole story.
This is AOC Martinique rhum, made to a protected standard: cane juice, fermented and run through a creole column still, then aged in French oak. The XO, or Hors d'Age, is a blend of rums between eight and ten years old, bottled at 45%. If you know Depaz only as a young blanc, the aged expression is a different animal — closer in feel to an armagnac than to Caribbean molasses rum.
The nose carries fresh sugarcane and vanilla with orange peel, fruitcake and a note of chocolate and liquorice. The palate is warmer — honey, caramel, tobacco and woody spice — kept lively by that green agricole freshness and a flash of tropical fruit. The finish is medium-long and pleasingly dry. At 45% it is expressive neat, though a drop of water widens the cane note.
A rhum for slow sipping and for anyone curious about the agricole style. It makes a serious Ti' Punch if you are feeling purist, but at this age I would keep it neat.
How to Serve
Neat in a spirit glass at room temperature. A little water is optional; ice only if you must.
Where to Drink It
Artesian at The Langham — adventurous, agricole-friendly bartending. Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood — a considered spirits list. The Connaught Bar — for a beautifully made Ti' Punch.
Food Pairings
Seared tuna, or a not-too-sweet almond tart.
