Bunnahabhain 40 Year Old (Bottled 2023)

Forty years in a cask on the north-east shore of Islay, and the spirit that emerges tastes not of oak but of tropical fruit. That is the quiet miracle of a very old Bunnahabhain: instead of drying out into tannin and sawdust, it drifts into mango, pineapple and passion fruit, held together by the distillery's coastal spine. Bottled in 2023 and limited to 2,568 bottles worldwide, this is a whisky laid down when the distillery was a very different, far smaller concern.

Bunnahabhain has always been the gentle contrarian of Islay, working with peat-free spring water while its neighbours chase smoke. Four decades in an oloroso sherry cask, finished in a tawny wine cask, have taken that unpeated spirit somewhere rarefied. At 41.9% it sits just where a whisky this old should, the strength faded to a whisper but the character intact.

The nose is a fruit bowl left in the sun: mango, papaya and passion fruit alongside peach, apricot and honeydew, with almonds, marzipan and a dusting of icing sugar. The palate is oily and creamy, layering more tropical fruit over vanilla, gentle spice, roasted nuts and a curl of sweet pipe tobacco. The oak is present but never dominant, a remarkable feat at this age. There is cherry and chocolate deep in the glass.

A bottle for a genuine milestone. Treat it with the patience it has already shown you.

How to Serve

Neat, always, in a Glencairn, and give it a long time in the glass. At forty years old and 41.9% it needs no water; adding any would be a shame.

Where to Drink It

Somewhere that understands rarity. The American Bar at The Savoy, or the Artesian at The Langham, for a pour worth marking. Failing that, your own quietest chair and no interruptions.

Food Pairings

This needs nothing beside it, but if you must, a few toasted almonds or a sliver of aged Gouda will sit quietly and let the whisky lead.