Barbaresco Rabajà, Bruno Giacosa 2021 75cl

Rabajà is one of the greatest crus in Barbaresco, and Bruno Giacosa is one of the greatest names ever to work Piedmont's soils. Put the two together and you have a Nebbiolo of near-mythical standing. The 2021 comes from the estate that Giacosa built into a byword for classical purity.

The Rabajà vineyard sits on marl-rich slopes above the village of Barbaresco, giving wines of perfume and structure in equal measure. Giacosa, who died in 2018, was famous for a hands-off, traditional approach that let site speak without artifice — long ageing in large oak, no cosmetic winemaking. The house continues in that spirit.

This is Nebbiolo at its most eloquent: rose petal and tar, red cherry and dried cranberry, white truffle, leather and a mineral, almost iron-like undertow. The tannins are firm and fine, the acidity bright, the finish astonishingly long and savoury. Pale in the glass, powerful on the palate — the great Nebbiolo paradox.

At around £230 this is a serious wine for those who understand what Rabajà and Giacosa mean. The 2021 is a fine, classical vintage and this needs time; it will drink from around 2028 and cellar gracefully for two decades.

How to Serve

Serve at 16–18°C in a large Burgundy bowl. Decant two to three hours ahead if opening young — Nebbiolo needs air to unfurl.

Where to Drink It

Bocca di Lupo, Soho — knowledgeable about Piedmont. Trullo, Islington — the kind of cooking that flatters Nebbiolo. Sartoria, Mayfair — an Italian cellar with real depth.

Food Pairings

Nothing beats a risotto shaved with white truffle when you have a wine like this. Braised beef cheek in Barolo-style sauce is the heartier alternative.