Starward Nova – 70cl

If your idea of whisky is still a stuffy old gent by a fireplace, Starward is here to interfere with that completely. This is a single malt made in Port Melbourne, and the distillery does something genuinely clever: Nova is matured entirely in Australian red wine barrels, filled wet — straight from the winery, still damp with wine — so the new-make spirit takes the fruit on from day one. The result has a character you simply won't find in Scotch.

Melbourne's famously unreliable weather does the rest. Big daily swings push the spirit in and out of the wood faster than a cool Scottish warehouse ever would, packing a lot of flavour into a relatively young whisky. Bottled at 41%.

The nose is bold and generous — red berries, dark chocolate and orchard fruit. The palate follows through richly: chocolate and raspberry, vanilla and caramel over the top, then a curl of spice. The finish starts on bright red fruit, gathers a touch of oak, and stays soft and long rather than sharp. A few drops of water open the fruit further, though it holds up perfectly well neat.

This is the bottle to hand someone who reckons they don't like whisky. It changes minds fast. It also makes a seriously good Old Fashioned, if you fancy showing off.

How to Serve

Neat in a tulip or Glencairn at room temperature, with a few drops of water to let the red fruit spread out. Ice mutes it — better to add water and take your time.

Where to Drink It

Black Rock in Shoreditch, where world whisky gets an honest hearing. Soho Whisky Club for a pour among people who will argue about it. Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood for something more comfortable.

Food Pairings

Lean savoury: a plate of bresaola or good salami, or roast duck with the skin left crisp. Aged Gouda works well too — the nuttiness meets the wine cask head on.